What with the long-standing — and often loudly lamented — domination of professional kitchens by men, you might doubt the need for Steven Raichlen’s “Man Made Meals: The Essential Cookbook for Guys.”
But as many will be quick to point out — and truthful guys able to admit — demographics in restaurants and catering outfits do not reflect what goes on in the privacy of the home.
Which is where Raichlen’s new book comes in, all 631 recipe-packed, advice-giving and go-get-’em-boy pages of it. Yours for $24.95.
On Raichlen’s first trip to Uruguay, a chivito was his introduction to that country’s cuisine. This is a classic kitchen-sink sandwich, one that Raichlen says “makes a Philly cheeseteak look downright anorexic.” That’s a bold statement. Then again, a chivito is a bold sandwich. Makes 2 sandwiches.
2 kaiser rolls
2 tablespoons mayonnaise, preferably Best or Hellmann’s
2 Boston lettuce leaves, rinsed and patted dry with paper towels
4 slices bacon, cut in half crosswise
2 beef steaks, 3-4 ounces each, cut or pounded ¼ inch thick
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 slices jack or mild cheddar cheese
2 large eggs
1 ripe tomato, thinly sliced
2 large strips roasted red pepper (optional)
Cut rolls almost in half through the side. Spread the cut sides with the mayonnaise. Place a lettuce leaf on the bottom of each roll. Set aside.
Arrange the bacon in a single layer in a large cold skillet and heat over medium. Cook bacon until it is crisped and browned, 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Leave bacon fat in skillet.
Season steaks with salt and pepper to taste. Heat skillet over high. Add steaks to skillet and cook to taste (2 minutes per side for medium).
Place steaks on rolls and top with bacon and cheese. Leave fat in skillet. Heat the skillet again over medium-high heat. Crack eggs into the skillet and cook until the whites are crisp and brown on the bottom, carefully turning with a spatula. Slide eggs onto sandwich atop the cheese.
Top each egg with tomato slices and a strip of red pepper, if using. Adjust seasonings. Slice sandwiches in half and serve.
Farm Stand Salad
This is a lovely, colorful salad with farmers markets now in season. Serves 2-4.
2 ears sweet corn, husked and de-silked
1 pint local cherry tomatoes, cut in half, or 1 large heirloom tomato, cut in chunks
6 ounces haricot verts or slender green beans, rinsed and stemmed
1 bunch arugula, rinsed and patted dry
2 tablespoons coarse-chopped fresh dill, basil, tarragon, chervil or other summer herbs, or a combo of them
2 tablespoons hazelnut or walnut oil, or extra-virgin olive oil (or to taste)
1 tablespoon rice or wine vinegar
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cut the corn kernels off the cobs. Place kernels in large bowl. Add the tomatoes, green beans, arugula and herbs. Pour oil, vinegar and maple syrup over the salad, but don’t toss it. (The salad can be made and refrigerated a couple of hours before serving.)
Just before serving, toss the salad and adjust seasoning.
A New Shrimp Cocktail
Raichlen greatly prefers this salad over traditional boiled versions. “The sauce gets a double blast of heat from grated horseradish and chipotle peppers,” he says. “Now that’s a shrimp cocktail.” Serves 4.
FOR THE SHRIMP
1½ pounds peeled, deveined raw jumbo shrimp
2-3 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil or butter, plus 2 tablespoons olive oil if pan frying.
4 cilantro sprigs (optional)
FOR THE CHIPOTLE COCKTAIL SAUCE
¾ cup ketchup
¼ cup drained, prepared horseradish
1 teaspoon grated fresh orange zest
3 tablespoons fresh orange juice
1 tablespoon Worcestshire sauce
1-2 canned chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, minced, with 1-2 teaspoons of the juices
Place shrimp in bowl and sprinkle with the Old Bay. Toss well to coat, then add 1 tablespoon of oil and toss again.
Preheat broiler to high. Place shrimp on broiler pan a couple of inches from the broiler and cook until browned outside and cooked through, 2-3 minutes per side.
Transfer the cooked shrimp to a platter and let cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. The shrimp can be prepared up to 24 hours ahead to this stage.
Make the cocktail sauce: Place ketchup, horseradish, orange zest and juice, Worcestershire sauce and chipotles with their juices in a bowl and whisk to mix. Refrigerate the cocktail sauce, covered, until ready to serve.
To serve, divide the cocktail sauce among 4 small bowls, one for each diner. Serve shrimp on the platter with the cilantro sprigs (optional) on top.
Finger-burner Lamb Chops
Scottadito is Italian for “finger burner,” and these lamb chops are served smoking hot. Ask the butcher to “French” the bones, scraping them clean for the last 2-3 inches to create easier handling. Serves 4.
2½ pounds small lamb rib chops, cut ½ inch thick
Coarse salt and freshly cracked or ground black peppercorns
1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
1-4 tablespoons good olive oil
Lemon wedges, for serving
Arrange lamb chops in a single layer on a baking sheet. Generously season on one side with salt and pepper and half of the hot pepper flakes, minced garlic and rosemary. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of olive oil over the chops and pat the ingredients into the meat with your fingertips. Let marinate for about 20 minutes.
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large cast-iron plan over high heat until shimmering. Add chops in a single layer, working in batches as needed. Cook until well-browned on the bottom, about 3 minutes. Flip chops and cook another 3 minutes, or to taste.
Place chops on a platter and encourage guests to eat them straight from the bone. Serve with lemon wedges for squeezing and plenty of napkins.