Just tuning in? Be sure to read Powderhorn & Palisade: Colorado’s Best-Kept Secret for Affordable Family Skiing & Small-Town Charm.
When I travel, I typically dive deep into research, crafting a well-planned itinerary while leaving room for local tips to refine my adventure. But on my recent trip to Colorado’s Western Slope, aside from a planned ski day at Powderhorn Mountain Resort, I had done almost no research. My expectations for exploration weren’t just low—they were nonexistent.
Then came the Grand Mesa, and with it, one of my favorite Nordic ski days. EVER!
Just 40 minutes from Grand Junction, the Grand Mesa National Forest transforms into a snow-covered paradise, complete with pristine trails, frozen lakes, and the slopes of Powderhorn. While Grand Junction basks in its mild desert climate, the Grand Mesa—towering 6,000+ feet above—becomes a dazzling winter wonderland, an under-the-radar haven for snow-loving adventure families.
Nordic Nirvana at 10,000 Feet
Odin Recreation, in Mesa, Colorado, is your unassuming rental hub for top-quality snowshoe, classic, skate and Nordic touring packages. The helpful staff also expounded upon Grand Mesa Nordic Council’s trail system which features two conveniently located trailheads along Highway 65, just two miles apart, with 30 kilometers (19 miles) of meticulously groomed skate and class cross-country ski trails. The high elevation allows for one of the longest ski seasons in the lower 48.
I chose to explore the County Line trails, where the terrain is mostly easy to moderate, featuring a few short climbs and an elevation change of up to 50 feet. Steeper descents, marked with caution symbols and directional chevrons, alert skiers to blind corners and trail crossings.
Arriving at the trailhead at 9:30 a.m., I was greeted by a crisp 28-degree morning and a nearly empty parking lot. From the moment I clicked into my skis, I knew my adventure to The Overlook would be one for the books. As I glided through towering pines and aspen forests, I invented a little game—were the vast, untouched expanses frozen lakes or meadows? It was hard to tell, but there were plenty of both.
The trails soon bustled with all kinds of recreational enthusiasts—some on skis or snowshoes with their dogs, moms gliding on skis while towing their kids on sleds, and even a handful racers on the adjacent skate track. A recent foot of snowfall, paired with a fresh groom, made the conditions flawless. Under a cobalt-blue sky, the snow shimmered like crushed diamonds, and the occasional whisper of wind sent powder drifting from the treetops, creating a real-life Narnia effect.
After a few miles, my energy waned. Surely, I had to be close? At the crest of a small hill, I met a grey-haired man who looked as if he had stepped straight out of an outdoor adventure magazine. With an infectious enthusiasm, he shared insider knowledge about the area, warning against visiting in July when mosquitoes reign supreme but raving about late summer, fall, and winter. He told me the Overlook was nearby and would give me clear views of 14,000-foot peaks Wetterhorn Peak, Uncompahgre Peak, Mount Sneffels, and even Lizard Head Pass with its dramatic silhouette. He expounded that the area boasted stunning 100-mile vistas of the West Elk and San Juan Mountains to the south and the Battlements to the north.
In awe, I thanked him and couldn’t help but marvel at how this was the first time I’d ever heard of the Grand Mesa. I turned back toward the groomed track ahead of me and in an instant, he had vanished into the trees, gliding effortlessly through ungroomed powder without a trail. A seasoned local? Or perhaps a Grand Mesa Yeti? Either way, trailblazers don’t need trails. And that Overlook was every bit as breathtaking as he had described.
Mesa Lakes Lodge
Two Memorable Sidetrips
Mesa Lakes Lodge. Just as I thought my adventures were winding down, I began my descent toward our base camp in Palisade. But then— a sign. No, an actual road sign for Mesa Lakes Lodge. On a whim, I veered off, curiosity leading the way, and what I discovered felt like stepping into a postcard. A charming lodge with an inviting fireplace and a restaurant serving up hearty comfort food. A frozen lake dotted with hopeful ice fishermen. Rustic cabins tucked along the snowy shoreline, whispering promises of peace and solitude. And then, another sign—this one reading “For Sale.” For a fleeting moment, I imagined persuading my husband that this could be our future, a retirement dream wrapped in a winter wonderland. A vision I’ll tuck away and revisit on sweltering summer days when the thought of snow feels like a distant dream.
Mesa Lakes
Sledding Heaven. Further down the road, I stumbled upon a scene of pure joy: families spilling out of cars, sleds and inner tubes in tow, ready to take on the beloved Old Mesa Ski Hill—or as locals fondly call it, Old Powderhorn. Once a small ski area, it now serves as a free top-notch sledding destination where kids and kids-at-heart fly down the hill, hooting and hollering between sips of hot chocolate.
Pristine Nordic trails. A wise mountain sage. A cozy lodge. An unexpected sledding detour. My day on the Grand Mesa was pure magic. As I drove away, one thing was clear: One visit wasn’t enough and I can’t wait to return to this snowy sanctuary in the sky.
Author: Amber Johnson
Amber is the founder and editor of Mile High Mamas, travel writer and former columnist for The Denver Post. She is a passionate community builder and loves the outdoors. She has two awesome teens and is happily married to a man obsessed with growing The Great Pumpkin.
